Yes. The transition has been frustrating. We won't go back because of the benefits inherent in GraphQL's design, but graphene-django has so much boilerplate that a more complex application becomes very convoluted. In my opinion there's a lot of work to be done to get it to a point where it's not a frustrating experience to implement.
Similar experience. While the django rest framework is a joy to use, I’m almost inclined to call graphene a headache. Poor docs, lots of spread our third party extensions that really should be in the core... I have even found myself wondering if the stark discrepancy between drf and graphene reflects or hints at a decline of django as a framework.
I don't know about decline but in the UK there are currently 65% more Django roles than Rails on Indeed.co.uk if you search by title:Django or Django title:Python.
It's the supporting libraries. GraphQL itself is fantastic and solves so many of the issues that crop up when using REST, especially around excessive requests, extraneous data and poor transaction support. My team's core knowledge is in Python and Django so that's where we're most productive, even hamstrung by the tools, but with a bit more flexibility in timelines I'd probably go the typescript/node/apollo route.