It would be interesting to ask someone to taste-test hydroponic tomatoes vs soil tomatoes. My guess is no one can tell the difference, and in fact hydroponic probably tastes better. So yes, genetics only define a potential in a pedantic definition but those genes only need light, CO2, nitrogen, phosphorus, and trace metals to affect life.
As for the wine argument, I really can't tell the difference between two buck chuck and a $250 bottle of wine and I'd venture a guess that neither can most people (ok, maybe two buck chuck is a little too low on the quality pole). As for molecular content, I'm sure the grapes that go into a choice pinot noir would sustain life just as efficiently as the red grapes in my grocery store.
Differences in appreciation of food is multi factorial of course. One can produce crap or greatness given the same material, and another could appreciate it or not given personal preference and culture.
Regarding wine, I guess culture plays an important role.
Differences between wine grapes grains and table grape grains, is mostly selection and cultural practices. Table grape is grown for volume and freshness, wine grape is grown to be concentrated in sugar and other compounds, with lower yields, higher maturity, etc.
Both use lots of pesticides nowadays unfortunately.
As for their capability of sustaining life, I don’t know. Grape was used for fasting and purging traditionally :)
Moreover, our taste is only loosely related to the plant optimum. Some prefer sweetness, acidity, softness, juicyness ...
The soil, undersoil and climate have great impact on naturally grown plants. See wine.