This is the story of a love-hate relationship with one (1) mechanical watch.
The complaint about big dials is familiar, watches trend big these days, but literally everyone who wears a watch has preferences for what they want to wear, this has no bearing on a watch being mechanical. I don't have many watches, but the largest dial is 40mm.
I'm at a bit of a loss about the bit where mechanicals stop running after awhile. ...yes? The watch in question is an automatic, so the author could get a winder if they don't want to reset the date.
Nothing at all wrong with a bargain Seiko, that said springing for sapphire is a great way to avoid having to baby a watch. The bit about feeling unsafe wearing it in the rain is pure neurosis, however: a 30m resistant watch can be worn in the shower, bath, pool, nothing bad will happen. Just don't dive with it.
So if you're reading this: you like Seiko, you don't like glass, you don't like resetting the date, and you worry about water resistance. Get a nice sapphire Seiko, put it on a winder when you aren't using it, and calm down about water, Japanese engineering is more than up to the task.
Edit: worth pointing out that for a Seiko 5, there are sapphire crystals which a professional can install, so that's another option.
> Like other analog products that persist in a digital age (see vinyl, print media, and board games), much of the popularity of mechanical watches can be attributed to nostalgia. Quartz watches are superior in almost every metric: they cost less, tell better time, pack more features, and are far easier to repair. Yet it's mechanical watches that are the world's most sought-after, expensive timepieces.
This is a fascinating point. When it comes to our hobbies, romanticism trumps pure utility, and I think that's a lovely thing.
I really enjoy having a mechanical wrist. I could have the exact same watch in Quartz and it would be cheaper, more reliable and more accurate, but there is something about having something 'non-electronic' on me that is a pure marvel of engineering that gives me joy.
I think your word 'romanticism' is right - there is a sort of semi-magical quality of a mechanical watch for me about how a vanishingly small series of weights, springs and cogs manages to keep time with zero electronics.
It's not to say that there isn't a bit of magic in a quartz watch - but that type of magic doesn't feel as magical in a world of iPhones and laptops. Putting my watch to my ear and hearing ticking that sounds like a victorian automoton however feels like an entirely different type of magic, and one which is far less common.
Seiko’s “Spring Drive” is a really cool bit of technology that sort of bridges the gap between quartz and mechanical watches. It’s basically a movement that mechanically generates power but has a quartz regulator that makes it exceptionally accurate. Still expensive, but at least they’re breaking some boundaries.
I would disagree its about nostalgia when it comes to mechanical watches. I like them because they are a thing of engineering beauty. I even watch youtube videos of people taking them apart because they are just so amazingly intricate. No nostalgia for me, just a pure appreciation for a really well made thing.
I think the main thing here is to get a watch that matches what you want to get out of it.
I have a mid-range watch, an Omega, that I got new. It's automatic (meaning it's mechanical but it automatically winds as I swing my arm from walking). I wear it nearly every day and almost always just works. I don't mess with it "every other day" like OP, I mess with it every other month when I have to reset the 31 day date window on my watch because the month only has 30 days.
This matches my use better than even a smart watch, which requires more charging and maintenance than my automatic watch. Of course, I could buy like 10-20 apple watches for what I paid for it :)
The watch is 5 years old and it only loses around a second a day on average (it's rated for +-2 seconds). Incredible that it's completely mechanical, and it's part of why I think it's such a cool device to have.
I would tell anyone buying a mechanical/automatic watch to also buy a watch winder.
Complaining about the fragility of (in this case) cheap consumer products is also, unfortunately, self-defeating. I have a Tag Heuer that I've been in a (semi-serious) car accident with - which came out with a bent buckle & still works fine to this day.
It's akin to buying a bottle of Lagavulin & complaining about the smoky taste.
Or to stick with a daily driver. If you wear the same watch except for special occasions it should be fine overnight in a drawer unless something is wrong with the mainspring.
A winder is going to cause wear and tear on watches, so it should only be used if you really need to swap watches daily and have a large collection.
Totally agree with the quality comment. If you think your cheap watch is fragile, perhaps you shouldn't buy cheap watches. I'm a big fan of bulova and they've all been built like a tank.
> My Seiko has only 30m of water resistance, which in the watch world is pretty much akin to not having any at all. I don't even feel safe having it on in the rain.
How is rain even remotely the same as >30m submersion?
Does “in the watch world” only apply to fancy watches? I have a $200-ish Seiko Kinetic and have never worried about rain, washing my hands, or even taking it in a pool. I don’t even remember what the rating is — I just know I looked at it once and decided not to worry about it because I never go below a few feet underwater.
probably fine with a seiko but from what I recall you generally want to see 100m to never worry about it. I think 50m is general water resistance and 100m is maybe you can swim with it. probably better to confirm with your own research if you get a fancier watch in the future.
Water Resistant 3 atm or 30 m: Suitable for everyday use. Splash/rain resistant. Not suitable for showering, bathing, swimming, snorkeling, water related work, fishing, and diving.
> These vagueries have since been superseded by ISO 22810:2010, in which "any watch on the market sold as water-resistant must satisfy ISO 22810 – regardless of the brand."
Following the reference, we get this:
> For example, if a watch is said to be “water resistant” to 30 meters (100 feet), this means that for all aquatic activities down to a depth of 30 meters, the watch case should not leak. The manufacturer of a water-resistant watch may offer ratings to help consumers determine the sort of environment the watch can handle.
Seikos were always built to this standard, for the record. Since 2010, any watch marked water-resistant meets it, at least if they want to sell in Europe, but I repeat myself.
For me it's having just one thing I own not be disposable, and built like it. My favorite watch has a sapphire crystal and ceramic dial. I bash that thing into walls and doorknobs constantly and after many years I still can't even tell it's even happened once. I'd be fine if it was quartz, but it would have to be some kind of quartz movement that I knew could be repaired or replaced in 20 years. Despite what watch nerds say, I'm pretty sure that's entirely reasonable, but it's just not the norm for some reason. Grand Seiko is the exception, but I'm far too casual a dude for that brand.
My son is into mechanical watches but he's also into shooting a black powder muzzle loader. Before he got into that I thought you'd be crazy to shoot a gun without cartridges but I found it was pretty fun when I tried it out.
Constraints bring out creativity, and that is often fun. Film photography is more fun than digital photography. Driving a manual transmission is more fun than auto. But obviously if you had to do either for a living, you would pick the less fun but technically better options. :-)
Winding my watch and setting/checking the time is a morning ritual. It also helps me set my own inner clock. Usually I know what time my watch says before I look at it.
Likewise a timer. The motion of the hands gives much better sense of the movement of time than numbers changing on a digital readout, and a screen rendition of hands moving is so clearly an illusion, my subconscious regards it as a fantasy.
Why would I want a digital watch? Just another set of annoying updates and notifications and battery needs charging and system updates and ....
> Why would I want a digital watch? Just another set of annoying updates and notifications and battery needs charging and system updates and ....
Depends on the watch. I've got, on my hand right now, a $15 casio that was purchased in 2011 and it is still on its first battery.
OTOH, for dress matches, it annoys me no end that when I open my watch drawer and pick a quartz watch (whether digital or not) and find that the battery is dead and I cannot use it for that specific occasion.
At least with the mechanicals I can wind it there and then, set the time and use it.
"Mr. Ibe set about creating 'the unbreakable watch' based upon a triple 10 philosophy. It should be water resistant to 10bar, have a minimum 10 year battery life and most importantly, survive a minimum 10 metre drop."
Watch enthusiasts are almost exclusively about mechanical movements. Younger generations are about smart watches, if they wear a watch at all. So quartz doesn't have much of an enthusiast market (with some exceptions, mainly Casio). What you get then is cheap and cheap looking watches with quartz movements. If you want a nicely crafted watch it's probably going to have to be mechanical. Which is ok, as they are mainly jewelry. But I find it a shame, I would love more choice of nice quartz watches.
It's hard to convey how and why I am so attached to mechanical watches. I'd say that looking down and seeing the pallet fork dance like a skeleton and the balance wheel spin in perfect time makes me feel like everything in the universe is deterministic and I don't have to worry so much. This tiny bit of ingenious engineering on my wrist brings me great comfort. When I don't have it on I am more likely to feel depressed or anxious.
It is for this reason I wear my favorite mechanical watch every day (currently I am infatuated with the 44mm Zenith DEFY El Primero 21 with a skeleton dial) so I rarely run into the problem this author describes. It also doesn't have any complicated functions that must be set (the sole additional feature is a timing mechanism that uses a separate movement and power reserve), so in the rare case I am not wearing it for a couple days I don't have to spend a lot of time fiddling with it. This guy should get a watch winder though. And have someone install a sapphire glass crystal after market (or do it himself if he wants to have some fun). And uhh, you can shower in that thing bro (just don't press the buttons while you are showering, this can create a gap in the seals). It is fine.
Also a fan of mechanical watches, including doing mods/builds of them.
I don't mind winding mine up and setting the time, but if that bothers you, you can get a watch winder that will keep the spring topped off on automatics.
Regarding size, there seems to be a consensus that trends are slowly gravitating back towards more reasonable case diameters. Even Panerai (famous for its massive chonkers) released its first 38mm recently. You can also get into vintage watches. Over 40mm was very rare and mainly limited to dive watches some 30 years ago. Thinness was more of a priority back then too. As an adult male with a standard 7" wrist, 38mm diameter and under 12mm thickness is my preference for a comfortable all-day wearing experience.
Those who genuinely do love sporting a huge dinner plate on their wrist need not worry though, since I'm sure they'll always keep making plenty of the big ones. In the smart watch world, I suspect certain models will get bigger as users demand more battery life and functionality. For example, Garmin recently came out with the 51mm Fenix 7X.
I also got interested in mechanical watches about 10 years ago and bought a Vostok Amphibia to play with.
One additional burden of mechanical watch ownership is regular maintenance. This isn’t mentioned in the article, possibly because the author has not had their mechanical watch long enough to need it. But every mechanical watch eventually needs to be serviced. At least disassembled, cleaned, and re-assembled, and maybe some parts replaced.
I didn’t appreciate this until my Vostok needed it; it just stopped being reliable over time. Then I thought I should have just bought a nicer watch, but nope: even Rolexes and super expensive watches are supposed to go in every few years for servicing.
It was actually very difficult to find someone to do the Amphibia. Seiko and nicer watches have official servicing programs and networks of authorized repair shops. None of them wanted to touch an obscure cheap Russian watch.
And the watch itself only cost like $50 used… I was reluctant to spend $hundreds on a servicing. So it sits in a drawer, stopped. And I’m back to my Timex Ironman, which is on at least its 3rd battery.
> even Rolexes and super expensive watches are supposed to go in every few years for servicing.
Not so true these days. For example Oris (Calibre 400) and Tudor recommend service once every 10 years on their latest movements, if that. I know of Rolex owners that have gone 20 years without servicing they've still kept good time. I recently purchased a Pelagos and the watch maker at the shop told me I probably don't even need to get it serviced at the 10 year mark. Like anything YMMV.
With things like using more jewels than ever, the latest movements are becoming extremely reliable and not needing service as often.
Those Vostoks are almost comically unreliable, most quality watches like a Seiko can go years (even a decade) without any maintenance even if routine maintenance is usually advised.
I just bought solar powered + radio sync one to never have to worry about it again (well, once per 10 years the lithium battery needs replacement but that's about it). Almost worked, got Pro Trek and it takes a bit of fiddling to get it to sync, pretty much have to be outside and facing right direction
Speaking from experience, a decent entry-level set up for servicing costs minimum $500, you'll need to do it several times to get it right, you'll probably break the first watch you try it on, and you'll forget the skills involved if you don't keep servicing watches. It's kind of fun, kind of frustrating, and only worth it as a one-off to understand how a mechanical watch works unless you plan on rehabbing watches as a hobby.
As an alternative, I recommend buying an old pocket watch and dis/reassembling that. Easier to work with, same basic principles of operation.
I have a 1960s steel Omega that keeps pretty good time and that I wear most days. It's comfortable and pretty and never actively tries to get my attention (other than being an objectively nice object to look at). It's also, in comparison with a modern watch, tiny. 35mm or so. I can't imagine wearing some expensive heavy monstrosity every day.
> Another thing that watch enthusiasts definitely warned me about but that didn't hit me until I actually started using a mechanical watch was just how annoying keeping up with a mechanical movement can be [...]
There are automatic mechanical watches. Together with a watch winder you don't have to worry about winding your watch. But I guess there are none in sub 40mm? Haven't payed attention to the space in the last 15 years.
> Like other analog products that persist in a digital age (see vinyl, print media, and board games), much of the popularity of mechanical watches can be attributed to nostalgia.
In addition to that one of the other big reason is probably that expensive mechanical watches are a status symbol, and are also a decent investement. Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, A.Lange & Söhne etc. hold their value well or increase over time.
An auto-winding mechanical watch still winds down if you put it down and leave it still.
> Together with a watch winder you don't have to worry about winding your watch.
For those not aware, a “watch winder” is a motorized device that you strap your watch onto, which rotates the watch to auto-wind it when you’re not wearing it… an accessory you don’t need to buy for quartz watch.
However I'm not wedded to them being exclusively analog.
I have a orient ray raven II, which is big, but really practical. (I did have to regulate it my self, as its was off by 4 minutes a day. so it was desperately impractical before then) I've had it on all the time for about 5 years. It feels solid, and has 200m of waterproofing (supposedly)
I have other watches, some of them are tuning fork watches (batshit crazy mechanism) or quartz controlled tuning fork. I have a cute mechanical moonphase watch with a famous cartoon character on it.
Finally I have a High accuracy quartz watch as well.
But OP's point about them getting bigger is spot on. Lots of modern mechanical watches are getting to the 45mm size. which is far to fucking big.
However I've stopped thinking about them as "time pieces" and just accepted that its all just jewellery, that makes life far more logical.
Sems strange to complain about an automatic mechanical watch being itself - like complaining that a manual car needs you to change gears! He has a very nice watch. Setting the time if he doesn't wear it takes a 10 seconds (a minute if you need to get the day and date correct)
> Quartz watches are superior in almost every metric: [...] are far easier to repair.
Not at all. Repairing a broken quartz mechanism almost always means replacing vast swaths of it, if you're not replacing the watch entirely. In the case of quality quartz movement analog watches, the rest of the movement is mostly identical to mechanical watches.
Now then, for a compromise, I recommend solar powered analog watches. They have the best of both worlds, a perpetually powered and satisfying mechanism controlled by a quartz movement. I do wish they had faster beats (ticks of the second hand), but I get why they don't.
I have one (though a cheap one, Hamilton Khaki Field) which I love, I wear it once a week to enjoy it. Otherwise I wear a GW-M561 because it's much more practical and robust.
I think one aspect of getting into "vintage" technology in one way or another (vinyl, mechanical watches, fountain pens, etc.) is becoming familiar with the reasons that people developed newer approaches.
In my experience, it's a fun way to learn about design and technological progress. Sometimes you find the quirks or inconveniences outweigh the appeal that initially drew you to it. Other times not, and the imperfections of the item in question become part of its charm.
> Quartz watches are superior in almost every metric: they cost less, tell better time […]
This is true to a certain extent, in that an equivalent level of accuracy is generally cheaper with a quartz watch than a mechanical watch, but it’s not true across the board. I have a relatively basic mechanical watch that’s dramatically more accurate over a month than the Timex Easy Reader I bought for $25. High accuracy quartz watches are more expensive than you might think.
I bought a Seiko SKX007K as my intro to mechanical watches. I like it, but the inaccuracy is annoying. I've never really measured it, but I would imagine a couple of minutes per day.
I also have an Omega Seamaster from the 90's when they were producing a quartz variant which I really like, but before I got my cheap fitness tracker my go-to daily watch was a radio controlled, solar powered, digital G Shock. Always ready to go, indestructable, and perfectly accurate.
A halfway decent mechanical watch shouldn't drift more than 10 seconds a day. If it's off by that much, it needs to be fixed/services, but that's not economical on most Seikos. If the movement is cheap enough, or if there's a cheap clone movement available, I think you just take the watch apart, separate the hand and face from the old movement, attach the new movement, chuck the old parts in the trash, and put it back together.
There are reasons the world moved on, but that doesn't mean you can't appreciate the old tech either.
A mechanical watch is a piece of jewelry. As such, it subject of fashion whims, fragility and limitations. But, what a pleasure!
I enjoy beauty of my skeleton. The tourbillon is absolutely mesmerizing. The alarm adds utility to the third timepiece. And so on...
A lot of mechanical watches has automatic winding nowadays. Watch winder is an easy and relatively cheap solution. I also had more problems with scratches on quartz, than with sapphire crystal.
I think that it makes much more sense to think about a mechanical watch as art than a tool. Luckily (?), we have moved past the necessity of having a watch around since devices telling us the time are so abundant nowadays.
That is why, in my opinion, one should look at a watch more as a piece of art that can be worn than a means for keeping time. That is at least how I like to look at them. :)
Ever since I was a kid, I knew that a mechanical watch has to be wound every day. That's why it was such a big deal when automatic mechanical watches came out, which, IMHO, solved this very well. I'm surprised that OP didn't know about this considering how much research they've done.
OP is talking about automatic mechanical watches - the issue he is describing is that if you don't wear one for a few days then it will stop and go out of time.
Speaking of alternative, power supplies for watches One day I'd like to see a paper thin watch that goes around your wrist and runs on the temperature differential between your body temp and air temp, using the peltier effect for example.
It may be the appeal of a small machine with exceptionally tiny, often handmade parts decorated or at least polished to a beautiful sheen. There is an unquantifiable moment when a crafted item, in this case mechanical, is so well made it slides into a category of art. The watch is not quite an automaton, but it can evoke a bit of wonder and marvel.
The problem for the watch enthusiast is that there is always a watch that is better, artistically or mechanically, or more beautiful. Acquiring one that is affordable is a bit of a hunt, as is increasing one's knowledge of what makes a watch good and beautiful.
It's not nostalgia, I don't believe, but the pleasure of having an item that evokes a bit of wonder.
A mechanical watch owner here: One very important thing to keep in mind is that a mechanical watch needs to be worn always in order to avoid having a winder or the gears losing their accuracy. Therefore, I opted for a "field" automatic watch: Seiko SNZG15J1. Field automatic watches are meant to be worn all the time. The SNZG15 has the Seiko 7S36 caliber which doesn't allow hacking or manual winding. But both features are not really necessary if you wear the watch all the time and willing to accept < 60 seconds worst case difference with atomic time.
I am sorry, but this is utter nonsense.
First of all, you are talking about automatic (mechanical) watches. Manually wound mechanical watches don't need a winder at all. Watch winders make sense only if you are bothered by setting your watches again before wearing them (which I find a very satisfying experience, personally) or if you have a very complicated watch where setting the date, day, moonphase etc would be more involved than for a pure time/date watch.
Secondly - and most importantly - the "gears" don't lose accuracy if you don't wear the watch. Back in the days before synthetic oils, one was meant to keep the watch running to have the oils retain viscosity. Luckily, that is not the case for a long time anymore.
It is actually quite the opposite nowadays: the more the watch runs, the greater the chance that the watch accumulates wear! Although with modern watches of at least decent quality, this is not really an issue.
I own ~20 watches, which I alternate through regularly and not a single one of them has - or needs - a winder.
This. Mechanical watches are happiest when continually running. If you take it off all the time and throw it back on once in a while, and it keeps shutting down in the process, it's not going to last as long as you think without some servicing. This is why people buy watch winders for the ones they don't wear often that keep them running.
The complaint about big dials is familiar, watches trend big these days, but literally everyone who wears a watch has preferences for what they want to wear, this has no bearing on a watch being mechanical. I don't have many watches, but the largest dial is 40mm.
I'm at a bit of a loss about the bit where mechanicals stop running after awhile. ...yes? The watch in question is an automatic, so the author could get a winder if they don't want to reset the date.
Nothing at all wrong with a bargain Seiko, that said springing for sapphire is a great way to avoid having to baby a watch. The bit about feeling unsafe wearing it in the rain is pure neurosis, however: a 30m resistant watch can be worn in the shower, bath, pool, nothing bad will happen. Just don't dive with it.
So if you're reading this: you like Seiko, you don't like glass, you don't like resetting the date, and you worry about water resistance. Get a nice sapphire Seiko, put it on a winder when you aren't using it, and calm down about water, Japanese engineering is more than up to the task.
Edit: worth pointing out that for a Seiko 5, there are sapphire crystals which a professional can install, so that's another option.