I think you mean complicated not complex, but either way gmail's advantage isn't only the UX, there are many other advantages of the mail being hosted on the web. I think for most these other advantages far outweigh any UI/UX considerations.
Interesting. Is this at the point where one could just buy a slice, run a server, and play around with the client or is Google holding some piece back until they open up their implementation to the public?
The most I've been able to achieve is to get the server running with Openfire (but it would probably work with ejabberd too). I can verify that it is connected to the external components part of Openfire, so I believe the server is setup correctly. I have also been able to get the basic example client they include running, but it did take some hacking, and I have not been able to successfully connect to my server yet, much less work with waves. I don't see ANY web-gui code in any of this, so I seriously doubt it's what you're looking for. If you want to setup the reference server and play around with it, you can now do that, anything else is iffy at best.
I hear people saying oh great that will replace eMail.. don't think so. M$ and others tried that and failed, why should it be different now? Google will try to keep a crucial piece of the pie like M$ does with the .NET platform.