Doesn't render nice in desktop browsers either. Once upon a time, at least that page would actually be a little easier on the eyes (and a bit uglier) thanks to Netscape's gray background. But the real kicker is that user stylesheets have gone the way of the dodo. There's no reason that page (as is) couldn't look better than most pdfs generated from LaTeX or what not. Sad, but true.

Firefox still has the user stylesheet but it's always been cumbersome to use it.

There's the extension "Stylish!" for Chrome and Firefox which has quite a good UI for giving the power of styling websites back to the user.